A Word to the Wise...

I receive a few emails now and then about S-keys not fitting or turning.  99.9% of the time, it's the wallbox lock and linkage. After sitting for years, they are stiff and gummed up. Very often the key won't even slide into the lock. Here's what I've found to work. The lock must be lubricated, most people use a spray penetrating oil (CRC, WD40, gun lube and so on...), just spray a little it into the key opening. Other folks like the dry graphite lube, and this is what a locksmith would recommend. Either way, once the lock has been lubed, work the key in and out (not force, not bang it in with a hammer) until it starts to slide nicely, then when it will slide to maximum depth with ease start twisting the key slide to slide. At this point most locks will just start turning, others need more help. Now I'm going to suggest something, something that must be done with some common sense. When a lock won't budge, I will carefully use a pair of pliers to help get the key turning. This does not mean use key bending pressure, but very often the first turn takes a lot of pressure, more than bare fingers can assert. Remember, use your head, not a hammer!

Rowe/AMI Wallbox Keys

Starting in the 60's Rowe (ROWE/AMI) started using the National B & C series locks in all WR/Wallette models of wallboxes. This includes the following models: WRA, WRC, WRD, WRE, WRF & CD.

It's possible some of these locks could have found their way into earlier AMI wallbox models such as the W or WQ series. But for the most part, the pre-Rowe wallboxes used "Bell" type locks which are completely different and no known source is available for those keys.

Check the face of your lock, if it looks like either of these and has a B or C followed by up to 3 digits stamped into it, I can cut a key for it. If it's blank I cannot.

Any number from B01A-B500A or C01A-C500A

$10 each